Intro

This floral lace crochet market bag combines a large layered flower medallion with an airy mesh body, firm upper band, and long crochet shoulder handles. The entire bag is worked in one soft sage-green cotton yarn, giving the decorative flower and practical market-bag shape the same elegant monochrome look.

This version is built around a true 8-petal flower construction and a clearly defined lace transition. Every decorative round has its own anchor points, so you never have to guess whether you should crochet into a petal, behind a petal, or into an earlier chain space.

The lower bag is also constructed from two matching floral medallions rather than treating one complete flower circle as the bottom of the bag. This keeps the entire round flower visible on the front, creates the same rounded lower silhouette, and gives the finished market bag a matching decorative back.

Description

The finished bag has a large round floral mandala on both the front and back. Each medallion begins with an 8-petal flower, followed by a second larger 8-petal layer and two decorative 16-scallop lace rings.

The two medallions are joined only along their lower semicircles. Their remaining upper edges become the foundation for the open mesh body.

From there, the bag continues upward seamlessly with:

• 32 evenly spaced mesh sections
• an expandable lace body
• a solid 6-round upper band
• two integrated long crochet handles
• no separately sewn straps
• no separate bottom panel

The result is a lightweight reusable crochet market bag that keeps the large flower fully visible instead of folding the motif underneath the bag.

Materials

• DK or light worsted weight cotton yarn in muted sage or olive green
• Approximately 350–450 g yarn
• 4 mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• 6–8 stitch markers
• Measuring tape
• Blocking mat and pins

Abbreviations

• MR – magic ring
• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• tr – treble crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• st – stitch
• sts – stitches
• sp – space
• sk – skip

Pattern Notes

• US crochet terminology is used.
• Difficulty: intermediate.
• Make 2 identical floral lace medallions.
• Every medallion begins with exactly 8 petals.
• The second petal layer also has exactly 8 petals.
• Later decorative lace rounds contain 16 scallops.
• The final perimeter of every medallion contains exactly 96 sc.
• The lower 48 perimeter stitches of the two medallions are joined together.
• The remaining 48 stitches on each medallion stay free.
• Those 96 free stitches become the mesh body.
• The mesh contains 32 spaces throughout.
• Do not work into the tops of the dimensional petals unless the instructions specifically tell you to.
• When a round says to work behind the petals, use the foundation chain spaces from the named earlier round.
• Block both medallions before joining them.

Approximate Finished Size

After blocking:

• Floral medallion diameter: approximately 28–30 cm
• Bag width laid flat: approximately 31–34 cm
• Bag height excluding handles: approximately 32–35 cm
• Handle drop: approximately 24–28 cm
• Overall handle length: approximately 60–70 cm

The mesh stretches considerably when the bag is filled.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: Crochet the First Floral Medallion

Use sage green yarn throughout.

Round 1 – Flower Foundation

Make an MR.

Ch 1.

Work:

16 sc into MR

Pull the ring firmly closed.

Join with sl st to the first sc.

16 sc

This 16-stitch center is important because the flower uses alternate stitches to create exactly 8 petals.

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Part 2: First 8-Petal Layer

Round 2 – Petal Arches

Ch 1.

Sc in the same st.

Work:

ch 3, sk next st, sc in next st

Repeat around.

After the eighth ch-3 space, join with sl st to the first sc.

You should have:

• 8 sc anchor stitches
• 8 ch-3 spaces
• 8 skipped stitches from Round 1

Those skipped Round 1 stitches will be used later for the second flower layer.

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Round 3 – First Petals

Sl st into the first ch-3 sp.

In the same space work:

sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc

Repeat this exact sequence in each remaining ch-3 sp.

You should have:

8 rounded petals

Join with sl st to the first sc.

Do not fasten off.

Gently push the petals forward.

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Part 3: Second 8-Petal Layer

Round 4 – Second-Layer Foundations

This round is worked behind Round 3.

Do not crochet into the tops of the first petals.

Looking behind the flower, locate the 8 skipped sc from Round 1.

Join yarn into any one of those unused stitches.

Ch 1 and sc in the same st.

Ch 5.

Sc in the next unused skipped Round 1 stitch.

Continue:

ch 5, sc in next unused Round 1 st

around.

Join to the first sc.

You should have exactly:

8 ch-5 spaces

behind the first petal layer.

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Round 5 – Large Petals

Work into the first ch-5 sp:

sc, hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc

Repeat in every ch-5 sp.

You should have:

8 large outer petals

Join with sl st.

Push these petals gently behind the smaller first-layer petals.

The flower should now have:

• 8 smaller inner petals
• 8 larger outer petals

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Part 4: First 16-Scallop Lace Ring

Round 6 – Make 16 Lace Arches

This round is worked behind the large petals into the Round 4 ch-5 foundation loops.

Do not work into Round 5 petal stitches.

For each one of the 8 Round 4 ch-5 loops, work the following behind the petal:

sc around the first side of the ch-5 loop, ch 5, sc around the second side of the same loop, ch 5

Repeat for all 8 foundation loops.

Join the final ch 5 to the first sc with sl st.

You now have:

16 ch-5 spaces

This cleanly doubles the design from 8 petals to 16 lace sections.

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Round 7 – 16 Lace Scallops

Into every ch-5 sp work:

sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc

Repeat around.

You should have:

16 scallops

Join with sl st.

These scallops form the first decorative lace ring surrounding the flower.

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Part 5: Second 16-Scallop Lace Ring

Round 8 – Outer Lace Foundations

Work behind Round 7.

Locate the 16 sc anchors from Round 6 between the scallops.

Join with a standing sc in any Round 6 sc.

Work:

ch 7, sc in next Round 6 sc

Repeat around.

After the final ch 7, join to the beginning sc.

You should have:

16 ch-7 spaces

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Round 9 – Large Outer Scallops

Into each ch-7 sp work:

sc, hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc

Repeat around all 16 spaces.

Join with sl st.

You should have:

16 large decorative scallops

These larger scallops create the pronounced flower-lace section visible around the center medallion.

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Part 6: Stabilize the Medallion

Round 10 – Hidden Stabilizing Round

This round is worked behind the Round 9 scallops.

Locate each Round 8 ch-7 foundation space.

Work:

6 sc into each ch-7 sp

Repeat for all 16 spaces.

16 × 6 = 96 sc

Join with sl st to the first sc.

96 sts

This round creates a mathematically even foundation for the final outer lace.

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Part 7: Final Decorative Lace Ring

Round 11 – Outer Lace Arches

Ch 1.

Sc in the first st.

Work:

ch 6, sk next 5 sts, sc in next st

Repeat around.

At the end you should have:

16 ch-6 spaces

Join with sl st to the first sc.

Each repeat uses exactly 6 stitches of the 96-stitch perimeter.

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Round 12 – Final Scallops

Into every ch-6 sp work:

sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc

Repeat around.

You should have:

16 final scallops

Join with sl st.

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Round 13 – Final Assembly Edge

Work behind the Round 12 scallops into the Round 11 ch-6 foundation spaces.

Work:

6 sc into every ch-6 sp

Repeat around.

96 sc

Join with sl st.

Fasten off.

This is the edge that will be used for assembling the bag.

Do not use the tips of the scallops for joining.

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Part 8: Block the First Medallion

Wet block or steam carefully according to your yarn.

Pin the medallion into a neat circle approximately:

28–30 cm across

Arrange:

• the 8 inner petals
• the 8 larger petals
• the 16 inner lace scallops
• the 16 outer scallops

Allow it to dry completely.

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Part 9: Make the Second Medallion

Repeat Parts 1–8 exactly.

You need:

2 identical medallions

Both must finish with:

96 sc around the assembly edge

Block them to the same diameter.

Part 10: Mark the Upper and Lower Halves

Lay one medallion flat.

Position one flower petal straight upward.

Fold or visually divide the circle horizontally.

Place one marker at the exact left side and one at the exact right side.

Count the perimeter stitches.

You should have:

• 48 stitches along the upper semicircle
• 48 stitches along the lower semicircle

Adjust the marker positions by one stitch if necessary so each half contains exactly 48 stitches.

Repeat on the second medallion.

Make sure the flowers face the same direction.

Part 11: Join the Lower Medallions

Place the two medallions together with wrong sides facing each other and right sides facing outward.

Match the left and right side markers.

Using sage yarn and a yarn needle, join the 48 lower stitches only.

Use a neat mattress or whipstitch seam.

Match:

1 stitch from the front medallion to 1 stitch from the back medallion

all the way around the lower semicircle.

Do not join the upper 48 stitches.

When finished, the lower halves form the rounded bag bottom while both complete floral medallions remain visible.

You should now have:

• 48 free upper stitches on the front
• 48 free upper stitches on the back
• 96 free stitches total

Part 12: Begin the Mesh Body

Join yarn at one side marker.

Work around both free upper arcs as one continuous bag opening.

Mesh Round 1

Sc in the first free stitch.

Work:

ch 4, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st

Repeat across all 48 front stitches.

Continue immediately across the 48 back stitches using the same repeat.

Join with sl st to the first sc.

You should have:

32 ch-4 mesh spaces

The count is exact because:

96 stitches ÷ 3 = 32 repeats

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Part 13: Continue the Mesh

Mesh Round 2

Sl st into the first ch-4 sp.

Ch 1.

Sc in the same ch-4 sp.

Work:

ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp

Repeat around.

After the final ch 4, join to the first sc.

You should still have:

32 mesh spaces

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Mesh Rounds 3–14

Repeat Mesh Round 2.

Keep:

32 ch-4 spaces in every round

Do not increase.

As you continue without increases, the lace naturally forms the upper bag body.

Work more or fewer rounds if you want to adjust the finished height.

For the proportions shown, use approximately:

14 mesh rounds total

Part 14: Solid Top Band Foundation

After completing the final mesh round:

Sl st into the first ch-4 sp.

Ch 1.

Work:

3 sc into each ch-4 space

Repeat around.

There are 32 spaces.

32 × 3 = 96 sc

Join with sl st.

96 sts

The bag is now back to the same 96-stitch circumference used at the medallion edge.

Part 15: Build the Solid Top Band

Band Round 2

Ch 1.

Sc in every stitch around.

96 sc

Join.

Band Round 3

Repeat.

96 sc

Band Round 4

Repeat.

96 sc

Band Round 5

Repeat.

96 sc

Band Round 6

Repeat.

96 sc

The finished upper band should measure approximately:

3–4 cm high

Do not fasten off.

Part 16: Mark the Handle Positions

Lay the bag completely flat.

You should have approximately:

• 48 top-band stitches across the front
• 48 across the back

On the front:

• count 8 stitches from the left side and place Marker 1
• count 32 stitches across the center
• place Marker 2
• 8 stitches should remain before the right side

Repeat on the back.

This gives each handle a wide opening while leaving sturdy crochet at both sides.

Part 17: First Integrated Handle Round

Continue from the beginning of the round.

Work:

sc in first 8 sts

Then:

ch 70

Skip the next:

32 sts

Sc in the remaining:

8 front sts

Continue onto the back.

Sc in the first:

8 back sts

Then:

ch 70

Skip:

32 sts

Sc in the final:

8 sts

Join with sl st to the first sc.

You now have exactly:

2 handle openings

Check carefully that neither chain is twisted.

Part 18: Reinforce the Handles

Handle Round 2

Ch 1.

Sc in every existing sc.

When you reach each handle chain:

work 1 sc in every chain

Continue around the entire new upper edge.

Join.

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Handle Round 3

Ch 1.

Sc in every stitch around, including across both handles.

Join.

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Handle Round 4

Repeat one more full round of sc.

Join.

Fasten off.

The handles now contain three solid crochet layers around the original foundation chains.

Part 19: Reinforce the Handle Bases

Thread matching yarn onto a yarn needle.

At each of the four points where a handle meets the top band, make several discreet reinforcement stitches.

Sew through:

• handle edge
• upper band
• several nearby solid stitches

Do not sew through only one stitch.

This distributes the load when the market bag is filled.

Part 20: Final Blocking

Lightly dampen the finished bag.

Do not stretch the mesh aggressively.

Shape:

• both floral medallions
• rounded lower seam
• mesh body
• top band
• handles

Lay flat to dry.

Open the petals and scallops gently with your fingers.

Finished Construction Check

Before using the bag, confirm that your finished project has:

Floral Medallions

• 2 matching medallions
• 8 small petals each
• 8 large petals each
• 16 first lace scallops
• 16 larger outer scallops
• 96 final perimeter stitches each

Lower Bag

• 48 lower perimeter stitches joined
• 48 free upper stitches per medallion
• rounded front and back floral sections

Mesh Body

• 96 starting stitches
• 32 mesh spaces
• approximately 14 mesh rounds
• no increases after the first mesh round

Top

• 96-stitch solid foundation
• 6 solid top-band rounds

Handles

• exactly 2 integrated handles
• 70-chain foundation for each
• 3 reinforcing crochet rounds
• 4 reinforced handle bases

Design Consistency Lock

For the finished bag to match the intended design, preserve these details.

Color

Use one color throughout:

muted sage / fresh olive green

Do not add contrasting colors.

Flower

The center must contain:

• exactly 8 small petals
• exactly 8 larger petals behind them

Do not use 6 petals.

Lace

Keep the layered circular lace construction surrounding the flower.

The medallion should remain visibly floral rather than becoming a plain crochet circle.

Lower Shape

Use two medallions so the entire flower remains visible on the front and back.

Do not fold a complete floral circle underneath the bag as a conventional flat base.

Mesh

Use open ch-4 mesh throughout the upper body.

Keep exactly 32 spaces so the mesh remains even.

Top Band

Keep it dense and solid to prevent the open mesh from stretching directly into the handles.

Handles

Use two long integrated crochet handles in the same sage yarn.

Do not add:

• leather straps
• wooden handles
• metal rings
• drawstrings
• zippers
• buttons

Tips & Variations

Use Cotton for Better Strength

Smooth cotton or mercerized cotton is ideal for this bag because the decorative flower stays defined while the mesh remains strong enough for reusable shopping.

Do Not Skip Blocking

The floral medallions contain several dimensional layers.

Blocking before assembly keeps:

• the circles equal in size
• the scallops open
• the lower bag balanced

Keep the Petal Foundation Rounds Visible

When working behind the petals, gently push the finished petal layer forward.

This makes it much easier to find the earlier chain spaces.

Never guess which stitch belongs to the next round.

Make the Bag Taller

Repeat additional Mesh Round 2 rounds before beginning the solid top band.

Every extra mesh round adds height without changing the circumference.

Make Shorter Handles

Replace ch 70 with approximately:

ch 50–55

for shorter hand-carry handles.

Make Longer Shoulder Handles

Use:

ch 80–90

for a deeper shoulder drop.

Keep both handles identical.

FAQ

Why does this version use two flower medallions?

Using one complete circular medallion as a conventional bottom would place much of the flower underneath the filled bag. Two medallions allow the large floral design to remain visible on the front and back while still creating a rounded lower section.

How many petals should the flower have?

Each medallion has exactly 8 first-layer petals and 8 larger second-layer petals.

Where do I work after making the petals?

The instructions specify the foundation round each time. The second petal layer uses the unused Round 1 stitches. The 16-space lace round is worked around the Round 4 foundation chains behind the large petals. Later stabilizing rounds are likewise worked into specifically named chain spaces rather than into undefined petal tops.

How many mesh spaces should I have?

You should have exactly:

32 ch-4 mesh spaces

throughout the mesh body.

Keeping this count consistent is important for an even bag.

Can I carry groceries in this bag?

The cotton mesh expands substantially, making it suitable for lightweight market items, produce, yarn, beach accessories, and similar contents. Avoid sharp objects that could snag the openwork.

Conclusion

This floral lace crochet market bag keeps the dramatic flower motif at the center of the design while using a construction that remains clear from beginning to end. Two 8-petal floral medallions create the rounded lower body, 32 consistent mesh spaces build the stretchy upper section, and a 96-stitch solid band supports two integrated shoulder handles.

The finished sage-green bag has the same combination of dimensional flowers, decorative lace, open market mesh, sturdy edging, and long handles, but every section now has a defined stitch count and a clear place to work the next round.