These airy crochet wide-leg pants combine a fitted high waistband with dramatic flowing legs and lightweight open mesh. The soft blue color, long palazzo silhouette, and vertical side panels create a comfortable crochet garment that can be styled over shorts, leggings, or swimwear.

This original, image-inspired pattern is worked seamlessly from the waistband downward. The front and back use an open diamond mesh, while narrow filet panels run down the outside of both legs. A drawstring waistband, added back rise, crotch bridge, extra-wide legs, and reinforced hems are all included so the finished pants are practical as well as beautiful.

Description

The finished crochet pants have a high, dense ribbed waistband with an adjustable drawstring. Below the waistband, the body opens into a loose mesh yoke with two decorative vertical side panels. The legs separate at the crotch and continue in wide, flowing rounds to ankle or floor length. Gentle increases create the dramatic palazzo shape, while a narrow solid border stabilizes each hem. The sample-style design is worked entirely in muted sky blue for a clean, elegant finish.

Materials

• Sport or light DK weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn
• Approximately:
  • XS: 1,500–1,700 yards
  • S: 1,700–1,900 yards
  • M: 1,900–2,200 yards
  • L: 2,200–2,500 yards
  • XL: 2,500–2,800 yards
  • 2XL: 2,800–3,200 yards
  • 3XL: 3,200–3,600 yards
• 3.5 mm crochet hook
• 3 mm crochet hook for the drawstring, optional
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Measuring tape
• Blocking mats and rustproof pins, optional
• Thin elastic for the waistband, optional

Abbreviations

• bpdc: back post double crochet
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• fpdc: front post double crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• sc: single crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• sp: space
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches

Finished Style

The pants are designed with generous positive ease.

The sample-style proportions include:

• High waistband: approximately 7–9 cm
• Full rise below waistband: approximately 23–29 cm
• Wide hip and upper-leg fit
• Long flowing legs
• Ankle or floor-length hem
• Approximately 24 additional stitches added to each leg for the palazzo flare

Gauge

After blocking in the main mesh pattern:

• 20 stitch positions = 10 cm
• 10 rounds = 10 cm

In solid double crochet:

• Approximately 18 dc = 10 cm

Always make and block a gauge swatch before beginning. Pants require more accurate gauge than small crochet accessories.

Size Guide

Size	Suggested Hip Measurement	Finished Body Circumference	Waistband Start Count	Body Count	Yoke Depth Below Waistband	Crotch Chain	Starting Leg Count
XS	82–88 cm	96 cm	128	192	23 cm	8	104
S	88–96 cm	108 cm	144	216	24 cm	10	118
M	96–104 cm	120 cm	160	240	25 cm	12	132
L	104–114 cm	132 cm	176	264	26 cm	12	144
XL	114–124 cm	144 cm	192	288	27 cm	14	158
2XL	124–136 cm	156 cm	208	312	28 cm	16	172
3XL	136–148 cm	168 cm	224	336	29 cm	18	186

The waistband is adjustable with a drawstring. For a more customized fit, begin with a multiple of four that measures comfortably around your natural waist.

Pattern Notes

• This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
• The pants are worked from the top downward.
• The waistband and body are worked in joined rounds.
• The joining seam remains at the center back.
• Ch 3 counts as the first dc unless stated otherwise.
• Place markers at the center front, center back, and both side seams.
• The body and legs use open mesh with one decorative 26-stitch filet panel at each outer side.
• Each leg inherits one side panel after the body is divided.
• Work the legs separately after completing the crotch division.
• Try the pants on during construction whenever possible.
• Measure length while the pants are hanging because cotton yarn may stretch.
• The pattern includes optional back-rise rows for improved fit.
• For the safest coverage, wear the pants over shorts, a bodysuit, leggings, or swimwear.

Special Stitch Patterns

Main Offset Mesh

Setup Round

Repeat across the designated mesh section:

• 1 dc in the next st
• Ch 1
• Skip the next st

Following Rounds

Repeat across the mesh section:

• 1 dc in the next ch-1 sp
• Ch 1
• Skip the next dc

This places each new dc inside the previous chain space and creates the soft diamond-like mesh visible in the design.

Decorative Side Filet Panel

The side panel uses 26 stitch positions.

Setup Round

Work:

• 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts
• Repeat 9 times:
  • Ch 1
  • Skip the next st
  • 1 dc in the next st
• 1 dc in each of the final 4 sts

Following Rounds

Work:

• 1 dc in each of the first 4 solid dc
• Repeat 9 times:
  • Ch 1
  • Skip the next ch-1 sp
  • 1 dc in the next dc
• 1 dc in each of the final 4 dc

This creates a vertical openwork panel framed by solid crochet bands.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Waistband

Using the 3.5 mm hook, make a foundation chain equal to the waistband start count for your size.

Join carefully with a sl st, making sure the chain is not twisted.

Round 1

Ch 3.

Work 1 dc in each chain around.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Round 2

Ch 3.

Work:

• Fpdc around each of the next 2 sts
• Bpdc around each of the next 2 sts

Repeat the 2-by-2 rib pattern around.

Join.

Rounds 3–4

Repeat Round 2, working fpdc around fpdc and bpdc around bpdc.

Round 5: Drawstring Eyelets

Continue in the established ribbing until you reach the center front marker.

Create the first eyelet:

• Ch 1
• Skip 1 st

Work 2 sts in the established rib pattern.

Create the second eyelet:

• Ch 1
• Skip 1 st

Continue the rib pattern around.

Join.

Rounds 6–8

Continue in the established ribbing.

Work 1 dc into each ch-1 eyelet space when you reach the center front.

After Round 8, the waistband should measure approximately 7–9 cm high.

Do not fasten off.

Increase From Waist to Hip

Body Round 1

Ch 3.

Work dc evenly around, adding evenly spaced increases until the stitch count equals the body count for your size.

An increase is made by working 2 dc in the same stitch.

For example, size M begins with 160 waistband stitches and increases to 240 body stitches.

Distribute the increases evenly rather than placing them together.

Join.

Mark the Body

Place markers at:

• Center back: beginning of round
• Right side: one quarter of the body count
• Center front: one half of the body count
• Left side: three quarters of the body count

At each side marker, count 13 stitch positions in each direction.

These 26 stitches form the decorative side panel.

The remaining stitches across the front and back are worked in the main offset mesh.

Set Up the Body Pattern

Body Round 2

Beginning at the center back, work the main mesh pattern until you reach the first marked side-panel section.

Work the 26-stitch decorative side panel.

Continue in main mesh across the front.

Work the second 26-stitch decorative side panel.

Continue in main mesh across the remaining back section.

Join.

Body Round 3

Work:

• Main offset mesh in every main mesh section
• Established vertical filet pattern over both 26-stitch side panels

Join.

Continue the Yoke

Repeat Body Round 3 until the work measures the yoke depth listed for your size, measured from the lower edge of the waistband.

Keep:

• The center-back seam straight
• Both side panels aligned vertically
• The front and back mesh even
• The stitch count unchanged

Optional Back-Rise Shaping

Back-rise shaping helps the waistband sit level and gives more room through the seat.

Stop approximately 4–5 cm before reaching the final yoke depth.

Place markers at both side seams.

Working only across the back half:

Short Row 1

Join or continue at the right-side marker.

Work in the established pattern across the back toward the left-side marker.

Stop 8 stitches before the left-side marker.

Turn.

Short Row 2

Ch 3.

Work back across the rear section.

Stop 8 stitches before the right-side marker.

Turn.

Short Row 3

Ch 3.

Work across, stopping 8 stitches before the previous turning point.

Turn.

Short Row 4

Repeat Short Row 3 from the opposite side.

Fasten off if necessary.

Join the working yarn at center back and work one complete body-pattern round around the pants, working evenly across the short-row ends.

Continue until the full yoke depth is reached.

Divide for the Legs

Confirm the center-front and center-back markers.

The body will now be divided into two equal halves.

First Leg

Join the yarn at the center-front marker.

Work in the established pattern around one side of the body:

• Across one half of the front
• Through one outer side panel
• Across one half of the back

Stop at the center-back marker.

Ch the number listed under Crotch Chain for your size.

Join with a sl st to the first stitch at the center-front marker.

The first leg now contains:

• Half of the body stitches
• The new crotch-chain stitches

This equals the Starting Leg Count in the size table.

Place a marker at the center of the outer side panel.

Place two additional increase markers in the main mesh:

• One centered across the front of the leg
• One centered across the back of the leg

First Leg Setup Round

Work the established pattern around:

• Main offset mesh across the front and back
• Decorative 26-stitch filet panel at the outer side
• Dc or mesh evenly across the crotch chain

Join at the inner leg.

Second Leg

Join the yarn at the center-back marker.

Work across the unworked half of the body toward the center-front marker.

Work into the unused loops on the opposite side of the crotch chain.

Join to the first stitch.

The second leg should have the same stitch count as the first leg.

Mark its outer 26-stitch side panel and its front and back increase points.

Work the Wide Legs

Work each leg separately.

Leg Rounds 1–5

Work evenly in the established pattern.

Keep the side panel straight and centered at the outer side.

Leg Increase Round

At the first mesh increase marker, work:

• 1 dc
• Ch 1
• 1 dc
• Ch 1

All in the same ch-1 space instead of the usual 1 dc and ch 1.

This adds one extra mesh cell and 2 stitch positions.

Repeat at the second mesh increase marker.

Each increase round adds 4 stitch positions to the leg.

Do not increase inside the decorative side panel.

Continue the Flare

Repeat:

• 5 even rounds
• 1 increase round

Complete 6 increase rounds total.

Each leg gains 24 stitch positions.

Approximate final leg counts:

Size	Starting Leg Count	Final Leg Count
XS	104	128
S	118	142
M	132	156
L	144	168
XL	158	182
2XL	172	196
3XL	186	210

After completing all increases, continue without shaping until the leg reaches the desired length.

Adjusting the Leg Length

Measure from the crotch to the desired hem position.

For full-length pants, stop approximately 3 cm before the required inseam measurement to allow room for the solid hem border.

Hang the pants for several hours before completing the hem. Cotton and open mesh may lengthen under their own weight.

Compare both legs before finishing.

Solid Hem Border

Hem Round 1

Ch 1.

Work:

• 1 sc in every dc
• 1 sc in every ch-1 sp

Join with a sl st.

Hem Round 2

Ch 1.

Work 1 sc in each st around.

Join.

Hem Round 3

Ch 1.

Working in the back loop only, sc in each st around.

Join and fasten off.

Repeat on the second leg.

The finished hem should be narrow, smooth, and stable without pulling the mesh inward.

Crochet Drawstring

Using the 3 mm or 3.5 mm hook:

Ch until the cord measures approximately 2 to 2½ times the waist measurement.

Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sl st loosely in each chain across.

Fasten off.

Tie a secure knot near each end.

Thread the cord through the two center-front eyelets and weave it through the waistband ribbing.

Bring both ends out through the front openings.

Tie into a bow.

Optional Elastic Waist Support

For added security, cut a piece of soft elastic approximately 2–5 cm shorter than the waist measurement.

Thread it invisibly through the inside of the waistband ribbing.

Overlap the ends and sew them securely.

Keep the crochet drawstring as the visible adjustable closure.

Crotch Finishing

Turn the pants inside out.

Check the crotch chain and the joins where both legs meet.

Using matching yarn and a yarn needle, reinforce:

• The center-front base of the crotch bridge
• The center-back base
• Both ends of the crotch chain
• Any small gaps between the two legs

Keep all stitches hidden inside.

Do not pull tightly enough to gather the crotch.

Final Finishing

Weave in every yarn end securely.

Check that:

• The waistband lies flat
• The drawstring eyelets are centered
• The side panels run straight down the outer legs
• The leg mesh is even
• The crotch is reinforced
• Both legs are the same length
• Both hems have the same stitch count
• The pants hang symmetrically

Wet block or gently steam according to the yarn instructions.

Lay the pants flat with the legs spread evenly.

Pin:

• The waistband
• Both side panels
• The inner-leg edges
• The hems

Allow the pants to dry completely.

Tips & Variations

Cotton or a cotton-bamboo blend gives the best drape for flowing crochet palazzo pants.

Avoid very heavy yarn. The completed pants contain a large amount of fabric and may stretch excessively if the yarn is too thick.

For a more transparent beach-cover-up style, move up to a 4 mm hook.

For more coverage, use a 3.25 mm hook or replace some mesh rounds with solid dc rounds.

To make the legs even wider, continue the increase sequence for two or three additional increase rounds.

For straighter legs, complete only two or three increase rounds.

For cropped pants, stop the legs at mid-calf and add the same three-round hem.

For shorts, stop several centimeters below the crotch and finish each leg with the solid border.

Always compare the pants with your body measurements instead of relying only on standard size labels.

FAQ

Can beginners make these crochet pants?

The stitches are not difficult, but the project requires careful measuring, maintaining pattern sections, dividing the legs, and checking fit. It is best for a confident beginner or intermediate crocheter.

How do I stop the pants from stretching too much?

Use cotton-blend yarn with good recovery, make a blocked gauge swatch, add elastic inside the waistband, and let the unfinished pants hang before deciding the final leg length.

Can I make the pants less see-through?

Yes. Use a smaller hook, choose a thicker light-DK yarn, shorten the chain spaces, or work the front and back sections in a denser stitch. They can also be worn over fitted shorts or leggings.

Conclusion

These crochet wide-leg pants combine an adjustable high waist, open diamond mesh, decorative filet side panels, a reinforced crotch, and dramatically flowing palazzo legs. Make them in the soft sky-blue shade shown here or choose a neutral, bright, or earthy color that suits your style. The customizable length and fit make this a striking summer crochet project and a beautiful handmade addition to your wardrobe.