Tunisian Checkerboard Baby Blanket Pattern

September 15, 2026 Tunisian Checkerboard Baby Blanket Pattern

This cozy baby blanket creates the woven checkerboard look of the reference image using an original modular Tunisian crochet construction.

Each small square is worked in Tunisian simple stitch, giving the fabric that distinctive vertical woven texture. Four coordinating colors are arranged in a repeating diagonal sequence, then the squares are joined into one soft patchwork blanket.

The advantage of this version is that you only hold a small number of loops at a time, so you do not need a long Tunisian cable hook. A regular crochet hook with a straight enough shaft can work for the individual squares.


Pattern at a Glance

Skill level: Advanced beginner / intermediate
Terminology: US crochet terms
Technique: Tunisian simple stitch
Construction: Individual mini squares joined into a rectangle
Finished size: Approximately 37 × 45 inches
Blanket body: 10 squares across × 12 squares down
Total squares: 120
Square size: Approximately 3¼ inches
Yarn weight: Worsted / Category 4
Hook: 5.5 mm
Colors: Cream, mist gray, olive, charcoal
Border: 3 rounds


Materials

You will need approximately:

Color A — Warm Cream

650–700 yards

Color B — Soft Mist Gray

400–450 yards

Color C — Heathered Olive Green

400–450 yards

Color D — Charcoal Gray

400–450 yards

Also:

  • 5.5 mm crochet hook with a straight shaft
  • yarn needle
  • scissors
  • stitch markers
  • measuring tape
  • blocking mats and pins, recommended

Total yarn requirement is approximately:

1,850–2,050 yards

Tunisian crochet can use more yarn than ordinary flat crochet, so having a little extra is useful.


Suggested Color Palette

For the earthy version:

A — Warm Cream

B — Pale Silver Gray

C — Moss / Olive Marl

D — Deep Charcoal

The four colors should have enough contrast that the individual checkerboard blocks remain obvious.

Other combinations that would work beautifully include:

  • ivory + blush + sage + charcoal
  • cream + mustard + rust + brown
  • white + pale blue + navy + gray
  • oatmeal + terracotta + olive + espresso
  • cream + lavender + plum + gray

Finished Measurements

Each blocked square:

Approximately 3¼ × 3¼ inches

Joined body:

Approximately 32½ × 39 inches

After joining and border:

Approximately 37 × 45 inches

Exact measurements will depend on your yarn, hook, joining tension, and blocking.


Gauge

One completed and blocked square should measure approximately:

3¼ inches square.

For this blanket, square size is more important than a specific stitch gauge.

Make one test square before crocheting all 120.

If your square is too small:

  • use a 6 mm hook
  • or work an additional Tunisian row

If your square is too large:

  • use a 5 mm hook
  • or remove one row

Once you are happy with the sample, make every remaining square exactly the same way.


Abbreviations

  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • Tss = Tunisian simple stitch
  • Tslst = Tunisian slip stitch
  • st = stitch
  • sts = stitches
  • yo = yarn over
  • lp = loop

Tunisian Checkerboard Baby Blanket Pattern

Tunisian Crochet Basics

Unlike ordinary crochet, each Tunisian row has two parts:

Forward Pass

You collect loops onto the hook.

Return Pass

You work those loops back off the hook.

Do not turn the work between the forward and return passes.

The right side stays facing you while each square is being crocheted.


Standard Tunisian Return Pass

After completing the forward pass:

Ch 1.

Then repeat:

Yo, pull through 2 loops

until only one loop remains on the hook.

That single remaining loop becomes the first loop of the next row.


Tunisian Simple Stitch — Tss

Skip the first vertical bar directly underneath the loop already on your hook.

Insert the hook from:

right to left

under the next front vertical bar.

Yarn over.

Pull up a loop.

Leave that loop on the hook.

Repeat across.


Final Edge Stitch

For a neat outer edge, work the final stitch differently.

At the final stitch of the row:

Insert the hook underneath both outer vertical strands of the last stitch.

Yarn over.

Pull up one loop.

This makes the edge firmer and easier to seam later.


Tunisian Slip Stitch Bind-Off

Insert the hook as you would for Tunisian simple stitch.

Yarn over.

Pull the yarn through:

  • the vertical bar
  • and the loop already on your hook

in one movement.

Continue across.

This creates a clean finished upper edge.


PART 1 — MAKE ONE TUNISIAN SQUARE

Every square is made exactly the same way.

Only the yarn color changes.

Using the 5.5 mm hook:

Ch 13.


Foundation Forward Pass

Skip the first chain closest to your hook.

Beginning in the second chain from the hook:

Insert hook into the back bump of each chain and pull up one loop.

Continue across.

You should finish with:

13 loops on the hook

including the original loop.


Foundation Return Pass

Ch 1.

Then:

Yo, pull through 2 loops

repeatedly until:

1 loop remains.


Row 2 — Tunisian Simple Stitch

Skip the first vertical bar.

Tss under each vertical bar across.

Work the final edge stitch under both outer strands.

You should again have:

13 loops.

Work the standard return pass.


Rows 3–10

Repeat Row 2.

For every row:

  • skip first vertical bar
  • Tss across
  • work final edge stitch
  • complete standard return pass

Keep your tension relaxed.


Check the Shape

After Row 10, the square should be close to square.

Depending on your yarn, you may need:

One additional row

if the piece is too wide and short.

Or you may stop one row earlier if it is already square.

The goal before blocking is approximately:

3–3¼ inches

in each direction.


Bind-Off Row

Work loosely.

Skip the first vertical bar.

Tslst across each vertical bar.

Work the final edge stitch as a slip stitch.

Fasten off, leaving approximately:

8–10 inches of yarn

if you want to use the tail for joining.


Why Tunisian Squares Curl

Tunisian simple stitch naturally tends to curl toward the front.

That is normal.

Do not compensate by making the stitches extremely loose.

Blocking will relax the individual squares, and joining them together further stabilizes the fabric.


PART 2 — MAKE ALL 120 SQUARES

Make:

Color A — Cream

30 squares

Color B — Mist Gray

30 squares

Color C — Olive

30 squares

Color D — Charcoal

30 squares

Total:

120 squares.


Block the Squares Before Joining

This step makes a major difference.

Pin every square to approximately:

3¼ × 3¼ inches.

Make sure:

  • all four corners are square
  • upper and lower edges are straight
  • vertical sides are equal
  • Tunisian texture remains visible

Allow the squares to dry completely before removing the pins.

A blocking board is especially useful here because you will be making many identical pieces.


PART 3 — COLOR LAYOUT

Arrange the blanket:

10 squares across × 12 rows down.

Use this repeating diagonal sequence.


Row 1

A – B – C – D – A – B – C – D – A – B


Row 2

B – C – D – A – B – C – D – A – B – C


Row 3

C – D – A – B – C – D – A – B – C – D


Row 4

D – A – B – C – D – A – B – C – D – A


Rows 5–8

Repeat Rows 1–4.


Rows 9–12

Repeat Rows 1–4 again.

This produces a diagonal checkerboard effect rather than simple vertical stripes.

The arrangement should look like little colored blocks moving diagonally across the blanket.


Take a Photo Before Joining

Once you are happy with the layout, photograph the entire arrangement.

This makes it much easier to reconstruct the color sequence if the squares get moved while you are joining.


PART 4 — JOIN THE SQUARES

A nearly invisible mattress-style seam keeps the checkerboard effect clean.

Use cream yarn or a neutral shade.


Join Squares Into Rows

Place two neighboring squares side by side with right sides facing upward.

Thread approximately:

24 inches of yarn

onto your yarn needle.

Beginning at one corner, pass the needle through the corresponding edge loops of both squares.

Alternate:

  • right square
  • left square
  • right square
  • left square

Pull the yarn gently every few stitches.

Do not pull tightly enough to gather the squares.

The seam should close neatly between them.


Complete Each Horizontal Strip

Join:

10 squares

to make the first row.

Repeat until you have:

12 strips.

Each strip contains 10 squares.


Join the Rows

Arrange the strips according to your original color-layout photograph.

Join Row 1 to Row 2.

Then:

Row 2 to Row 3.

Continue until all:

12 rows

are connected.


Align Every Intersection

Where four squares meet, take extra care to line up all four corners.

Pass your joining yarn securely through the intersection.

This prevents small holes from appearing where the seams cross.


Alternative — Visible Crochet Join

If you prefer a more graphic look, you can join the squares with slip stitches.

Place two squares wrong sides together.

Using cream:

Sl st through corresponding outer loops across the edge.

Keep the slip stitches loose.

This creates a subtle raised cream grid around the checkerboard blocks.


PART 5 — CHECK THE BLANKET BODY

Lay the assembled blanket flat.

You should see:

  • 10 blocks across
  • 12 blocks down
  • four repeating colors
  • diagonal color movement
  • consistent little Tunisian squares
  • a woven pixel-like texture

The body should measure approximately:

32½ × 39 inches

before the border.

Minor differences are fine.


PART 6 — BORDER

Use Color A — Cream and the 5.5 mm hook.

The border helps stabilize the many small squares and gives the checkerboard a clean outer frame.


Border Round 1

Join cream at any corner.

Ch 1.

Work sc evenly around the entire blanket.

Along each individual square edge, aim for approximately:

11 sc.

At each blanket corner:

3 sc.

Continue around.

Join with sl st to first sc.


Check Round 1

Lay the blanket flat.

If the edge is:

Ruffling

You have too many stitches.

Remove a few evenly along that side.

Pulling inward

Add a few stitches.

Getting Round 1 flat is more important than forcing an exact border stitch count.


Border Round 2

Ch 2.

Hdc in every stitch around.

At each corner work:

3 hdc

into the center corner stitch.

Join.


Border Round 3

Ch 1.

Working in the back loop only:

Sc in every stitch around.

At each corner:

3 BLO sc.

Join.

Fasten off.


Optional Fourth Round

For a slightly wider cream frame:

Work one final round of regular sc.

At every corner:

3 sc

in the center corner stitch.

Fasten off.


Finished Border

The completed border should measure approximately:

1½–2 inches

depending on tension.

This gives the final blanket dimensions of roughly:

37 × 45 inches.


Finishing

Weave in all remaining tails.

Because the blanket contains many small motifs, secure each tail carefully.

Weave:

  • several stitches in one direction
  • change direction
  • weave through several more stitches

Then trim.

Do not rely on simply cutting tails close to the joining seams.


Final Blocking

Lightly block the completed blanket.

Shape to approximately:

37 × 45 inches.

Straighten:

  • top
  • bottom
  • both side edges
  • all four corners

Use your fingers to flatten any square intersections that became slightly raised during joining.

Allow the blanket to dry completely.


Why the Blanket Looks Woven

Tunisian simple stitch creates a row of prominent vertical bars.

When many tiny squares are rotated through a strong checkerboard color arrangement, those vertical textures make each colored block look almost like a tiny piece of woven fabric.

The effect becomes especially striking when the blanket is folded because the small squares create a dense field of color instead of obvious large motifs.


How to Make a Smaller Baby Blanket

Use:

8 squares across × 10 squares down.

You will need:

80 squares.

Make:

  • 20 cream
  • 20 gray
  • 20 olive
  • 20 charcoal

The body will measure approximately:

26 × 32½ inches

before border.

After border:

approximately:

30 × 36 inches.


Larger Baby Blanket

Use:

10 × 12 squares

as written.

Total:

120 squares.

Finished:

approximately:

37 × 45 inches.


Toddler Blanket

Use:

12 squares across × 15 squares down.

Total:

180 squares.

Body approximately:

39 × 48¾ inches

before border.

Finished approximately:

43 × 53 inches.


Lap Blanket

Use:

14 squares across × 16 squares down.

Total:

224 squares.

Finished size will be approximately:

49 × 56 inches

depending on border and blocking.


How to Change the Square Size

You do not have to use 3¼-inch blocks.

For larger squares, begin with:

Ch 17.

Work Tunisian simple stitch until the piece is square.

Larger squares mean:

  • fewer motifs
  • faster assembly
  • bolder checkerboard effect

Smaller squares give the blanket the detailed pixel appearance seen here.


Three-Color Version

If you want fewer yarn colors, use:

  • cream
  • sage
  • charcoal

Arrange:

A – B – C – A – B – C

and offset each row by one color.

The result remains visually interesting but requires fewer yarn changes.


Two-Color Checkerboard

For a classic checkerboard, make equal amounts of:

A

Cream

B

Olive

Alternate:

A – B – A – B

then begin the next row:

B – A – B – A

This creates a bold graphic blanket.


Scrappy Version

This construction is excellent for leftover worsted yarn.

Keep one color consistent—such as cream—and fill the remaining squares with:

  • sage
  • rust
  • mustard
  • charcoal
  • taupe
  • dusty blue
  • terracotta

To keep the finished blanket cohesive, choose colors with similar saturation.


What If My Squares Curl Badly?

Some curl is expected with Tunisian simple stitch.

Try:

  • slightly larger hook
  • relaxed return passes
  • blocking before joining

Do not pull the first or last stitches excessively tight.

Once joined and bordered, the fabric usually becomes much flatter.


Why Are My Square Edges Loose?

The last stitch of each Tunisian row should be worked beneath:

both outer vertical strands.

This creates a more substantial side edge.

Also avoid making your return pass chains unusually loose.


Why Do My Squares Have Different Sizes?

The most common causes are:

  • changing tension
  • changing hooks
  • inconsistent row counts
  • different yarn thicknesses

Even yarns labeled as the same weight can behave differently.

Make a sample in each yarn color before producing dozens of squares.


What If One Yarn Color Makes a Smaller Square?

Use a slightly larger hook for that color.

For example:

  • 5.5 mm for most colors
  • 6 mm for a particularly thin yarn

The important result is that every blocked square reaches approximately:

3¼ inches.


Can I Use DK Yarn?

Yes.

Try a:

4.5–5 mm hook

and expect smaller blocks.

Either make more blocks or increase the foundation chain so each square still reaches your preferred size.


Can I Use Cotton?

Yes.

Cotton gives exceptionally crisp Tunisian stitch definition.

It works beautifully for this checkerboard style.

For a full blanket, however, pure cotton can become fairly heavy.

A cotton/acrylic blend is a useful alternative.


Can I Use a Regular Crochet Hook?

Yes, for these small squares.

Only a limited number of loops are held on the hook at one time.

Choose a hook with:

  • a reasonably straight shaft
  • no oversized ergonomic grip immediately behind the hook head

A short Tunisian crochet hook is even more comfortable if you already own one.


Do I Need a Tunisian Crochet Hook Set?

Not for this particular blanket.

However, if you enjoy the technique and later want to crochet:

  • full-width Tunisian blankets
  • shawls
  • large panels
  • sweaters

an interchangeable Tunisian hook set with cables makes larger projects much easier.


Using a Blocking Board

Because this pattern contains 120 identical squares, a blocking board can save considerable time.

Set the pegs once to:

3¼ × 3¼ inches.

Then block several squares to exactly the same measurement.

This helps create:

  • cleaner seams
  • straighter blanket edges
  • matching intersections
  • more professional-looking checkerboard blocks

Baby Blanket Safety

For baby use, keep the finished blanket free from:

  • buttons
  • beads
  • loose tassels
  • long fringe
  • detachable decorations

Secure all yarn ends carefully.

For infants, use handmade blankets for supervised cuddling, stroller time, floor play, or decoration rather than loose unattended sleep bedding.


Other Projects From the Same Squares

Once you know how to make the mini Tunisian block, the same construction can become:

Checkerboard Pillow

Make two:

5 × 5-square panels

and join around an insert.

Crochet Tote

Make two:

4 × 5-square panels

and add a firm bottom and handles.

Table Runner

Arrange:

3 squares across × 12–16 squares long.

Scarf

Use:

2 or 3 squares across

and continue to your preferred length.

Crochet Hook Case

Use smaller blocks to create a textured rectangular outer panel, then add a lining and zipper.


Final Thoughts

The visual impact comes from repeating one very simple idea:

tiny Tunisian square + four earthy colors + diagonal checkerboard layout.

You do not need to work an entire blanket with hundreds of loops sitting on one long hook.

Instead, each little block is manageable on its own.

Make the cream, gray, olive, and charcoal squares.

Block every one to the same size.

Arrange them in the diagonal four-color sequence.

Join them into a rectangle.

Then add a clean cream border.

The finished blanket has the woven, pixel-like appearance of a much more complicated technique while relying almost entirely on one stitch: Tunisian simple stitch.

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